*HARUNGGUAN ITU…*
_Tonun sebagai WARISAN, bukan sekedar KOMODITI_
Sebetulnya, saya cukup lama bergumul sebelum memosting tulisan ini.
Karena saya menyadari, saya ini bukan seorang antropolog, pakar, penggiat atau Raja Adat yang memahami dan mengetahui ulos secara mendalam.
Saya hanya seorang orangtua Batak yang ingin ‘pulang’ ke dalam pelukan budaya Batak, budaya nenek moyangku. Salah satunya dengan cara mencintai Tonun Batak.
Untuk mengetahui jalan ‘pulang’ ke balutan tonun Batak, saya berusaha mempelajari Ulos dari berbagai sumber. Termasuk pergi ke Muara di Taput dan Meat di Tobasa. Namun belum punya kesempatan untuk pergi ke Hutaraja Lumban Suhi di Samosir.
Dan pada saat belajar beberapa jenis Ulos itu, saya jatuh cinta pada sebuah Ulos bernama Harungguan. Mengapa saya jatuh cinta pada Harungguan?
Ada alasannya tentunya.
Harungguan berarti kumpulan (berasal dari kata runggu = kumpul, marrunggu = berkumpul).
Ulos Harungguan adalah kumpulan dari beberapa motif ulos yang mengandung beberapa makna filosofis.
Dalam selembar Ulos Harungguan, paling tidak ada sepuluh motif ulos (sibolang, mangiring, simarpusoran, simarsuksang, padangpadang, ragi hotang, dlsb.) tentu dengan belasan warna yang berbeda juga.
Jadi makna filosofis dari Harungguan adalah sebagai simbol dari beberapa harapan dan akan kebaikan-kebaikan yang semoga diterima oleh penerima Ulos.
Karena motif dan warna yang beragam itu, otomatis proses menenunnya juga rumit.
Mulai dari proses:
1. Mangunggas/Mangkanji : Mewarnai benang yang masih dalam gulungan besar berbentuk lingkaran dengan cara mengikat-ikatnya terlebih dahulu untuk membentuk corak sebelum dicelup.
2. Manghulhul : Menggulung benang dengan alat yang dinamai HULHULAN atau SORHA dari gulungan lingkaran besar tadi ke gulungan bentuk bulat agak besar-besar.
3. Manghasoli : Menggulung benang ke sepotong bambu seperti sumpit dengan cara diputar di atas paha dengan telapak tangan. Gulungan dalam sumpit inilah yang dimasukkan kedalam HASOLI yang dilempar di celah susunan benang pada alat tenun sebelum dirapatkan dengan BALIGA.
4. Mangani : Menyusun benang dalam alat yang disebut ANIAN sebelum ditenun untuk mengurutkan motif. Bila ada 10 motif dalam selembar ulos, berarti 10 kali menyusun motif yang berbeda.
5. Martonun: Menenun dengan teliti agar semua motif sejajar, benang tidak menggumpal atau putus. Selain harus teliti, proses tenun juga butuh tenaga yang kuat karena kainnya lebar, lengan dan dada cepat capek.
Dalam bertenun ada alat kecil namanya SORDAK yang fungsinya agar tenunan sama lebarnya dari ujung ke ujung.
Faktor-faktor itulah yang membuat saya jatuh cinta pada Harungguan.
Lalu beberapa teman bertanya pada saya :
“Apa bedanya dengan Harungguan yang murah itu?”
Rupanya begitu banyak orang yang tidak bisa membedakan Harungguan yang sebenarnya dengan harungguan ala-ala.
Saya sebutkan ala-ala karena kebanyakan Harungguan yang diposting oleh pedagang olshop adalah hasil tenun dengan motif suka-suka dengan warna suka-suka.
Bila selembar tenun sudah terdiri dari beberapa warna, sudah berani mengatakan itu Harungguan.
Itulah yang membuat saya miris.
Tenun Batak adalah sebuah warisan yang mengandung keterampilan khusus dan makna filosofis, bukan hanya sekedar komoditi dagang belaka.
Seorang pedagang mestinya ikut bertanggung jawab terhadap ‘nilai’ barang yang diperjualbelikan.
Bukan hanya sekedar barang biasa dan yang penting laku dijual.
Oleh sebab itu teman, mari kita lebih mencintai budaya kita dengan mengenal produk-produk budaya kita lebih dalam lagi.
Perkara kita bisa/mampu mengenakannya, adalah pertanyaan berikutnya…
Catatan:
Tulisan ini saya buat sebatas opini pribadi, bukan sebagai pakar/ahli.
Mohon maaf bila ada kesalahan.
Sangat terbuka untuk diskusi yang sehat, bukan yang mengajak ‘martongkar’.
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“`A. ni Amos Hutajulu“
Menarik semoga menjd energi positif bg kta batak khususnya yg memberi hati dn pemikirannya unk mendalami ulos, walau tdk berupa kajian ilmiah. Seperti yg kt ketahui jg, keanekaragaman motif pd tenun ulos masing masing memiliki fungsi sesuai tingkatannya, dan turun temurun itu dilestarikan. cnth: adongdo ulos napatut tu paropaan, napatut tu ulaon saur/sari matua, dll. Dengan demikian ketika terjd peralihan fungsi ulos menjd susuatu yg tdk pd tempatnya, disitulah kt sadar bahwa hari ulos sngat perlu dirayakan, maka dgn adanya Hari Ulos diharapkan mampu mengedukasi masyarakat muda Batak. Minimal mempertahankan tradisi ulos pd acara adat Alanan *tikki mangulosson* ulosi do kimestrina dpt dirasakan.
Jonter situmorang
Maaf bkn utk menggurui, hati hati kita menyampaikan apa itu,,Ulos,, sdh kita sampaikan bedakan Budaya dan Iman.
Ulos itu adalah sbg simbol, budaya, Jesus yg selalu pakai selendang/ulos (Batak), adalah budaya,cuci tangan sebelum makan budaya jahudi/adat yg berkaitan dgn kebersihan dan kesehatan, perempuan yang selalu pakai kerudung budaya bangsa itu sendiri bkn karna muslim atau Islam mauliate.
Kariana Siringo
Ulos adalah parhitean…jdi tdk ada salahnya memakai dan mangulosi.ompung kita dulu bijaksana buat ulos sbg simbol dan memberkati di bawah partuturannya.gak mungkin bicara,memberi nasehat dan berkat keseseorang dgn tangan hampa jdi di buatlah ulos dohot hata2_na….hatai hata tambaan.
Nelly Sihite
Yesus ketika berjalan jalan pada zamannya dia tetap memakai ulos/selendang yg selalu dipakai oleh orang Israel,Pada saat perempuan yg pendarahan selama 12 tahun sembuh dia hanya memegang rambu kain ulos/ selendang Yesus, Pada saat Yesus menghadiri pesta perkawinan yg kekurangan anggur,dengan perintahnya air menjadi anggur seluruh undangan pesta juga memakai selendang ulos yg merupakan adat Israel ,Apa alasan utk tdk memakai ulos,Yesus saja memakainya saat mengikuti adatnya, terus, apa alasan ulos harus dibakar,atau tdk bisa dipergunakan ,yg penting jangan mengkultuskan.
Poloria sidabutar
Naso mangargai jala naso mamboto lapatan ni hapeahan ni Ulos, berarti naso tu manda dirina( lupa diri ) jala naso margogo mardomu tu halak BATAK.
Kalau ada orang Batak yg anti sm ULOS, berarti dia dan atau mereka adlh orang2 yg TIDAK mengenal jati dirinya dan yg termasuk orang2 yg TIDAK kuat iman nya.
Memangnya apa salah ULOS tersebut?
Sebelum, mf agama yg dibawa dari luar masuk ke Tanah Batak, sdh duluan orang Batak mengenal dan adanya budaya Batak ( termasuk ULOS ).
Pertanyaannya:
1. Kenapa takut dan tdk suka akan ULOS Batak?
2. Apa salahnya ULOS Batak tersebut?
Cerdaslah memaknai ULOS Batak tersebut.
Jgn hilangkan jati diri kita sebagai bagian dari Bangsa ini, yg memiliki begitu kayanya akan budaya.Itu orangnya atau kelompok yg tidak tahu membedakan mana Iman, mana Budaya.
Jonter situmorang
Balik aja’bertanya, bila mana pemerintah mewajibkan NKRI, harus memakai bahan ulos jadi pakaian baju atau celana,hususnya bagi etnis Batak ?
Yang bersangkutan mau pakai apa? Apakah ybs telanjang ! Huhhh
Wtp simarmata
Sebagai Moderator Gereja Gereja Asia….. barusan saya menyematkan Ulos kepada DR Matthews George Chunakara.. Sekjend Gereja Asia di hadapan 109 orang Theolog dari Asia yg sedang konprensi di JW Mariot…Tuan Rumah GBI..
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